Most premium espresso machines in the world for home, restaurants or offices in Singapore.
Troubleshooting Guide for Professional Espresso Machines
80% of the reported issues are mainly due to a lack of understanding of how the machine works or user errors. We have pieced some commonly reported problems here, which will help.
The guide below is designed for Bezzera espresso machines sold and used in Singapore. We are unable to confirm if it works for machines of other brands
Answer: Clean, soft water. Not mineral or alkaline water. Wherever you are from, including Singapore, the water has to be softened to a safe level below 15 TDS but not at 0 TDS.
Minerals from hard water can cause damage to the machine over time and need to be descaled according to the water hardness rating. Failure to clear the minerals in the machine can cause massive damage, resulting in the sensors malfunctioning and not being safe for usage. Minor descaling can be done by using the descaling agent. (Warning: Do not activate the pump for more than 60 seconds without half-time rest. Double boilers can’t be descaled by users on their own) Thorough descaling should be done by professionals and can be very expensive as an overhaul is needed. Thus, the user needs to take preventive measures by softening the water and descaling should be done if a large amount of limescale is suspected.
To know more about water softening, refer to this article: Water Softening
Can I leave the machine on 24/7 or for long periods?
You should never leave a pressurised machine unsupervised.
Some models have parts that can endure a longer period of operation, but all components have a lifespan and don’t last forever. Leaving the machines switched on continuously could subject the components to unnecessary thermal or electrical stress. That can be a problem if your power supply is unstable or ventilation is terrible, which would greatly reduce the longevity of any components.
There are many safety precautions in place. Bezzera is one of the few companies that choose to install a full range of safety controls, like a mechanical pressure release valve, a thermostat that cuts off when too hot, low water sensors, water probes, etc. But it’s still possible that limescale formation or electrical conditions could render some sensors ineffective.
Issue: Do I need any power adaptors?
Answer: Our machines do not require any adaptors in Singapore. They are with a UK plug and run on 220-240V.
The user should plug in directly to the mains and not plug into any power extension or multi-adaptors. Many of these adaptors could cause an unstable power supply, and the additional adaptors add to the resistance.
Issue: My machine can’t start working on the first use. (On water tank)
Answer: Check if your water tank is full and water is being detected. If it’s not, the machine won’t start pumping as a precautionary feature. When water is detected, the orange light should be on.
Issue: My Bezzera Magica/Galatea Domus/Mitica/Strega/BZ16 can’t detect water, lights are not on, can’t heat up, or the pump doesn’t work. Or the machine is going on and off. (On water tank)
Answer: First, check if the low water indicator light is on. It’s usually the orange light. If you have a PID, the display may show nothing if no water is detected.
The heating element and the pump will not work if water isn’t detected. This safety feature keeps the boiler from drying out. The machine detects water from the electrons in it. If you have softened the water and the water is too close to 0 TDS (Total Dissolvable Solids), water should not be detected. The reason for such an advanced system installed is to prevent the usage of distilled water or water with similar composition. As such, water is highly erosive to the yellow metal, causing it to leach. Distilled water has another problem. The water level in the boiler is detected by the conduction via the water probes. Using distilled water will make such detection difficult or impossible. Losing the effectiveness of such sensors can damage the espresso machine.
To determine if water is the issue, try pouring a fresh tank of unfiltered clean water works. However, there’s a possibility that the water in your location was filtered by the building’s central unit then you might want to get water from another source, but it can’t be distilled or mineral water. Make sure that the water tank is correctly positioned and has a sufficient amount of water. The water level must reach above the two side screws, which sense the water level.
If the machine is going on and off frequently with the display or orange light flashing, improving the contacts can help by slightly denting the two metal side plates.
Water must be sufficient. Ensure the contacts are clean and the water level is high enough.
There are two ways if you insist on using the same water despite the system rejecting it.
You can choose to bypass the water sensor (This might not be available for machines produced after 2020). This is the easiest way, but it’s not recommended. You will need to ensure that the tank is always full and note that it cannot be reversed once the metal starts to erode.
You can remineralise the water to make it a little harder. Below are the instructions.
Rehardened distilled water
This is a chemist’s way of treating distilled water to be hard enough and not contribute to any limescale.
To add the beneficial minerals back into the water. We will suggest using the following formula, which should be done with either sodium bicarbonate or potassium bicarbonate.
Using Sodium Bicarbonate(NaHCO₃ aka baking soda) 1. Add 4.2 grams of sodium bicarbonate(baking soda) and dissolve it in 100 mL of distilled water to form a solution. 2. Add 2 mL of this bicarbonate solution to each litre of distilled water. This will give you 84 mg/litre.
Using Potassium Bicarbonate (KHCO₃) 1. Add 10 grams of Potassium Bicarbonate (K₂CO) and dissolve it in 100 mL of distilled water to form a solution. 2. Add 1 mL of this bicarbonate solution to each litre of distilled water. This will give you 100 mg/litre.
Issue: How to set to plumb in mode.
Answer:
For Expobar, please refer to the manual.
For Bezzera, please refer to the instruction manual for specific details.
First, do not switch the machine on until your machine has been correctly configured to connect to the water networks.
For Bezzera machines with TOP(Mitica/Strega), the machine comes in Tank mode, with only B connected. TOP machines also come with an additional plug.
For Plumb in mode: i) Connect A to the metal end, which bypasses the water tank’s low water sensor. ii) Screw the plug into the water inlet under the tank.
Reverse the steps to restore to Tank mode.
Second, check if your water network has sufficient water pressure. In some places, water comes out at a dropping amount. Water is best at 2-4 bars of pressure.
Pressure too high will lead to an overpressure in brewing.
Issue: Water is not coming out.
Answer: Check if your water network is properly connected or if the water tank is fully and properly detected.
If your machine is in water network mode.
The inlet pressure should force the water through the system. Check if the settings are right according to the manual.
If your machine is in tank mode First check if water is being detected. If it’s detected, the orange light should light up. If your machine can be in both tank or plumb mode, please check if the machine has been set to tank mode. You may need to prime the pump due to air locked inside, which is the air pressure in the hydraulics obstructing water flow. This can happen to a new machine, a machine not used for some time, or air sucked in, forming a block of air. Sometimes, water may not feed into the boiler because the water inlet hose or softener was not properly submerged and floated to the surface, sucking in the air instead of water. Remove any water softener and perform the following checks.
1. Switch off the machine.
2. Check water tank is full.
3. Take out the loaded water tank and put it back again to ensure it fits properly.
4. If the machine draws water by a water hose, check if the hose is submerged under water inside the reservoir. The inlet hose is usually the longer tube. Ensure that the hose does not float up to the water’s surface.
5. Switch on the machine, and the pump should start pumping. Allow it to pump for 10 seconds, switch it off, and check if the water is drawn in from the tank. Do it a few times if necessary.
6. DO NOT allow the pump to pump continuously for too long. Every two minutes of work with the vibration pump requires one minute of rest.
7. If you find water is drawn successfully from step 5, the machine should be ready to work by itself. The machine can draw enough water to keep its boiler full.
If you find step 5 isn’t working, and you can hear that the pump is working, too much pressure in the system might be blocking the flow. It requires a remedy by forcing water through the tube manually. Check the video instructions for vibration pump models.
Remember that every two minutes of the pump working; it needs one minute of rest.
Issue: My machine suddenly stopped working on the first use after switching it on. (On water tank)
Answer: This is common, particularly with double boilers. Your water tank had run out of water after drawing all its water to the boiler for the first time. Refill the water, and it should start.
MAINTAINANCE
Issue: Is water softening necessary?
Answer: Water softening is an essential maintenance process and must be done for any genre of coffee machines, at any capacity of usage. It is usually the chief culprit to any premature failure or technical issues. To know more about water softening, refer to this article: Water Softening
What happens is limescale will form and block off the censors, choke the valves, hinder the heating elements, etc.
There are many water-softening solutions available on our website and in the market. If you consider getting from a 3rd party vendor, it is important to check if the water filtration solution has any water softening capabilities and the due process to maintain the softener. Not all water filtration systems are capable of water softening.
If you have not done sufficient water softening, you may want to perform more regular water descaling. Descalers can be purchased from our website; if you like us to do it, you can order the package from the following link: Maintenance Service (For Semi-Professional Espresso Machines)
Issue: Should I do regular descaling?
Answer: The frequency for descaling depends on the hardness level and the amount of usage. It can be a few years, for a properly cared machine that has done the necessary water softening precautions. If the water has been treated well enough or has hardly any limescale, you may not need any descaling. On the other hand, if the water is hard and the machine is heavily used, you may need to do very frequent descaling
To know more about water softening, refer to this article: Water Softening
We suggest keeping your water soft rather than doing too much descaling. Descaling is a very corrosive process, and it’s unlikely that the usual descaling instructions can eliminate all the limescale, especially in dealing with the limescale choking the pressure sensors. Proper descaling requires a lot of work and expensive tasks for severe cases. We do have a maintenance package if you like us to do it.
Issue: How can I drain the boiler, and why should I do it?
Answer: As one uses the steam wand, the water gets released, while the minerals remain. Thus after some time, the water in the boiler will be highly concentrated with minerals and should be replaced with as much fresh water
The following steps will be good for any heat exchangers. For double boilers, the following steps can only remove water from the steam boiler.
Allow the machine to power up and heat up for around 30 minutes.
Power off the machine, and immediately release water from the water wand. This should drain out approximately 60-70% of the water. You may want to remove the water wand’s head during the process (Be careful of scalding yourself)
The next time you power on the machine, it should refill itself with fresh water.
You should do it at least once every 3 to 6 months for home usage. Monthly for heavy usage.
IMPORTANT: If the machine is connected to the water network, the water source should be closed before releasing the water in step 2.
Issue: How to replace the shower screen or grouphead gasket?
Answer:
For the BZ series, please refer to the product page here: Homepage
For E61 and spring pistons, refer to the following video:
If the gasket has not been removed for a very long time, there’s a possibility that the gasket has baked into the groove. This can be more tricky to remove, and we suggest going for our grouphead maintenance package.
Normally it’s more challenging to put back the gasket than to remove it. Softening the gasket with hot water, or applying some food-grade lubricant can help tremendously. Do the replacement while the machine is not hot or pressurised, and use your fingers to feel and ensure that the gasket has been properly inserted into the grooves.
Issue: My E61 handle on the brew controller seems loose.
Answer: There’s a screw beside. Use a minus screwdriver and tighten it.
Issue: The white film on my espresso machine is coming off / The sticker on the Expobar Control’s electronic control is coming off.
Answer: The sticker/film does not serve any purpose except protecting against scratches; it should be taken off.
Issue: Button is feeling sticky or needs to press a couple of times to activate.
Answer: Dust, humidity and dirt had congregated in the button.
The environment is most likely to be too dusty.
You will either have to live with it or replace the button. Newer models of Bezzera seem to have eliminated such issues and are unheard of.
Issue: My steam or water wand is very loose.
Answer: This is normal for a new machine. The fresh coat of lubricant is doing its job. It will season over time.
Issue: My steam or water wand is very stiff.
Answer: Purchase food-grade lubricant from our store and apply it to the ball joint. This should revitalise the wands to last for a while. Failure to do so can damage the wand’s contact. You will eventually need to either replace the gaskets or send them for servicing.
Issue: The knob on my wand feels a little loose. (Bezzera).
Answer: The knob for the steam wand feels looser to avoid overtightening, as it can cause the knob to be “sticky” and lock the wand unnecessarily.
Issue: I can’t lock the steam wand. (Bezzera).
Answer: By default, the locking angle for the steam wand is to turn it up. However, the user can accidentally rotate this to other angles. If you cannot lock the steam wand, you may want to check if you accidentally rotated the locking angle and rotate it back. You may want to do this while the machine is cold and not pressurized.
Issue: My portafilter is changing its colour.
Answer: It could be the coffee oil. Soak the metallic parts in a water mixture of grouphead detergent. It will restore the condition by stripping the oil. Avoid having the detergent in contact with the portafilter handles.
Issue: What is the portafilter’s head made of?
The portafilter heads are made of chrome-plated brass. If the chrome layer has been scrapped off, it will expose the underlying material. The brass used by Bezzera is food grade, with low or no lead, so do not be alarmed even if they are exposed. The reason why it’s not stainless steel is that steel is a much harder material and is less conductive. The grouphead is made of brass to conduct heat quickly and uniformly. A stainless steel portafilter could cause damage to the brass grouphead and does not conduct the heat well.
Issue: Water is leaking from the grouphead during extraction.
Answer: Most likely, your grouphead is dirty. You can use the provided grouphead brush to flush it.
Coffee may also have built up and prevented a complete seal. Please be reminded that the shower screen with the grouphead gasket should be cleaned periodically.
Preferably at least once every half a year. You should also do grouphead flushing with water after your last cup of the day, and with grouphead detergent at least once every two weeks.
The frequency will depend on usage.
Please refer to the following video on removing and putting it back. At the same time, remember to give the group head a good brush and wipe if it’s dirty.
Issue: Should I leave the machine on all the time?
Answer:
Definitely no.
Some users believe that keeping the machine switched on all the time, helps the fittings to remain tight as heating and cooling induce vibration from expansion and contraction from heat.
This is a myth which causes more damage than any good. In our experience, we have yet to see a case of the fitting getting too loose from users who switch the machine off after usage. Some of the fittings are applied with a food-grade thread locker or sealant to glue the fitting to keep it in place and from leaking. Instead, we have seen machines under so much thermal stress from continuous switching on, the machine placed under poor ventilation. Causing the thread locker to fail and result in tiny leaks.
On the other hand, leaving the machine on all the time will undoubtedly stress the internal components. Every component has a lifespan. Some switches go on and off, transferring tremendous power to the heating element. The switch might one day be too corroded, and the switch could stick to an “on” position, causing the machine to heat continuously. A primary regulator also tells the machine when and how to react. Continuous heating can cause more limescale around the pressor or heat sensors.
All these components have a lifespan, and switching the machine on all the time without supervision can be dangerous. A safety pressure valve and thermostat are in place to keep the machine from exploding. The bottom line message is, if you switch the machine on all the time, it goes without saying that specific electronic components might get worn earlier, resulting in more failures and repairs.
Machines that have to be operated for long hours are recommended to send for yearly inspections and replace critical components regularly.
Issue: Water is dripping around the grouphead while it’s brewing.
Answer: There are a few possible reasons.
The grouphead gasket or the rim of the portafilter basket may be dirty with coffee grounds and cannot provide a proper seal.
Issue: Why is my brew gauge showing pressure when it’s idling?
Answer: It’s normal. The connecting valve to the brew gauge is full of water. Water expands as the machine heats up, and may show a false reading. You can safely ignore this.
Issue: Why is my brew pressure no longer as much as before?
Answer: Check your grinder setting and your coffee condition. The condition of your beans or grinder may have changed, leading to a faster flow. Hence, it is unable to hold pressure. If your machine is the BZ or E61 series, you can check the condition of your pump by pressurising the grouphead with a blind filter. If the needle can hit at least 11 bars and hold it steadily, it’s working alright.
Do note that the servicing of the steam wand is part of the maintenance service which can be ordered from our website.
Issue: The orange low water indicator light is off, flickering, losing heat, or unstable extraction.
Answer:
This only applies to Bezzera machines using conduction to sense water in the tank. Eg: Magica, Mitica, Galatea Domus BZ16 with vibration pump, Strega, etc. We sometimes have clients coming back with this issue, but not one case has been found to do with the machine; it’s always an issue with the water. The water tank sensor is, just two conductive metal plates clamping the water tank. They are rarely out of order nor lose effectiveness over time.
Here are four likely reasons:
1. Water is too soft
The heating element and the pump will not work if water isn’t detected from the tank. This safety feature keeps the boiler from drying out. The machine detects water via electrolysis from the ions in the water. Water would not be detected if the water were softened too close to 0 TDS (Total Dissolvable Solids). The reason for such an advanced system installed is to prevent the use of distilled water or water with similar composition. As such water is highly erosive to yellow metal, causing the metal to erode and starts leaching. Such water can also produce another problem. The water probes in the boiler might not be able to accurately detect if there’s sufficient or too much water in the boiler. Losing the effectiveness of such sensors can severely damage the machine.
To figure out if water is the issue, try replacing the water in the tank with unfiltered clean water.
There’s a possibility that all the water from the tap of your building had been additionally filtered.
Then you might want to use water from another source, but never distilled or mineral water. Ensure the water tank is correctly positioned and has sufficient water above the minimum mark. The water must reach above the two side screws inside the water tank, which sense the water level.
2. Contacts are dirty
Sometimes, wiping the screw at the side of the water tank or the clamp might work. It is possible to improve the contacts by slightly denting the two metal side plates inward.
3. Water tank wasn’t correctly placed.
Ensure the tank is pushed down and not just hanging on the clamp or slanted.
4. Water is not enough
Ensure the tank is full and the water level is above the two screws in the tank.
If you like to confirm if the problem comes from the water or insist on using the same water despite the system rejecting it, there are two ways.
Method 1 (This might not be available for machines produced after 2020)
You can choose to bypass the water sensor. Bypassing the water sensor can be used to confirm if the water is the problem. This is the easiest way to address the issue immediately, but the user will need to ensure that the tank is always full, or else it can cause damage to the pump or other issues. Also, be aware that insisting on using too soft water can cause irreversible erosion to the metal and cause the metal to leach into the water. The water sensor in the boiler may not be able to detect and cause various technical issues properly.
Instructions for water sensor bypass Do not switch the machine on until your machine has been correctly configured to connect to the water networks. The machine comes in Tank mode, with only B connected.
Connect A to the metal end, which bypasses the water tank’s low water sensor.
Reverse the steps to restore to Tank mode.
Method 2
You can remineralise the water to make it a little harder. Below are the instructions.
Reharden distilled water
This is a chemist’s way of treating distilled water to be hard enough and not contribute to any limescale.
To add the beneficial minerals back into the water. We will suggest using the following formula, which should be done with either sodium bicarbonate or potassium bicarbonate.
Using Sodium Bicarbonate(NaHCO₃ aka baking soda) 1. Add 4.2 grams of sodium bicarbonate(baking soda) and dissolve it in 100 mL of distilled water to form a solution. 2. Add 2 mL of this bicarbonate solution to each litre of distilled water. This will give you 84 mg/litre.
Using Potassium Bicarbonate (KHCO₃) 1. Add 10 grams of Potassium Bicarbonate (K₂CO) and dissolve it in 100 mL of distilled water to form a solution. 2. Add 1 mL of this bicarbonate solution to each litre of distilled water. This will give you 100 mg/litre.
Issue: The PID screen is off or flickering, idling heat or extraction is unstable.
Answer:
This only happens to the Magica PID, Mitica TOP PID or other Bezzera machines using conduction to sense water in the water tank. We sometimes have clients coming back with this issue, but not one case has been found to do with the machine. It’s always the water. The water tank sensor is just the two conductive metal plates clamping the water tank. They are hard to get damaged or lose effectiveness over time.
Here are four likely reasons:
1. Water is too soft
The heating element and the pump will not work if water isn’t detected from the tank. This safety feature keeps the boiler from drying out. The machine detects water via electrolysis from the ions in the water. Water would not be detected if the water were softened too close to 0 TDS (Total Dissolvable Solids). The reason for such an advanced system installed is to prevent the use of distilled water or water with similar composition. As such water is highly erosive to yellow metal, causing the metal to erode and starts leaching. Such water can also produce another problem. The water probes in the boiler might not be able to accurately detect if there’s sufficient or too much water in the boiler. Losing the effectiveness of such sensors can severely damage the machine.
To figure out if water is the issue, try replacing the water in the tank with unfiltered clean water.
There’s a possibility that all the water from the tap of your building had been additionally filtered.
Then you might want to use water from another source, but never distilled or mineral water. Ensure the water tank is correctly positioned and has sufficient water above the minimum mark. The water must reach above the two side screws inside the tank, which sense the water level.
2. Contacts are dirty
Sometimes, wiping the screw at the side of the water tank or the clamp might work. It is possible to improve the contacts by slightly denting the two metal side plates inward.
3. Water tank wasn’t correctly placed.
Ensure the tank is pushed down and not just hanging on the clamp or slanted.
4. Water is not enough
Ensure the tank is full and the water is above the two screws in the water tank.
If you like to confirm if the problem comes from the water or insist on using the same water despite the system rejecting it, there are two ways.
Method 1 (This might not be available for machines produced after 2020)
You can choose to bypass the water sensor. Bypassing the water sensor can be used to confirm if the water is the problem. This is the easiest way to address the issue immediately, but the user will need to ensure that the tank is always full, or else it can cause damage to the pump or other issues. Also, be aware that insisting on using overly soft water, can cause irreversible erosion to the metal and cause the metal to leach into the water. The water sensor in the boiler may not be able to detect and cause various technical issues properly.
Instructions for water sensor bypass Do not switch the machine on until your machine has been correctly configured to connect to the water networks. The machine comes in Tank mode, with only B connected.
Connect A to the metal end, which bypasses the water tank’s low water sensor.
Reverse the steps to restore to Tank mode.
Method 2
You can remineralise the water to make it a little harder. Below are the instructions.
Reharden distilled water
This is a chemist’s way of treating distilled water to be hard enough and not contribute to any limescale.
To add the beneficial minerals back into the water. We will suggest using the following formula, which should be done with either sodium bicarbonate or potassium bicarbonate.
Using Sodium Bicarbonate(NaHCO₃ aka baking soda) 1. Add 4.2 grams of sodium bicarbonate(baking soda) and dissolve it in 100 mL of distilled water to form a solution. 2. Add 2 mL of this bicarbonate solution to each litre of distilled water. This will give you 84 mg/litre.
Using Potassium Bicarbonate (KHCO₃) 1. Add 10 grams of Potassium Bicarbonate (K₂CO) and dissolve it in 100 mL of distilled water to form a solution. 2. Add 1 mL of this bicarbonate solution to each litre of distilled water. This will give you 100 mg/litre.
Issue: I think my brew pressure isn’t right.
Answer: Check with a blind filter. It should show the maximum amount of pressure.
An actual extraction should show slightly less pressure, up to -0.5 bar from the maximum pressure, as the water escapes and reduces the pressure.
ALWAYS test brew pressure with a blind filter, not coffee. Do not allow the machine to pump for more than 2 minutes without an equivalent duration of rest.
Issue: The power trip when it’s on.
Check if there are any water leaks.
Please plug in directly to the main power outlet, do not use any adaptors. Try with another socket to isolate the issue if it comes from the machine.
Call for technical service.
Issue: The portafilter silicon gasket in my machine came out.
Answer: Normally, new users may report this, which can happen quickly if the user releases the portafilter while the brew chamber is still pressurised. Especially in models like Bezzera Strega or B2013AL, which have no release valve.
Please refer to the following video on how to put back the gasket. At the same time, remember to give the group head a good brush and wipe if you haven’t been doing.
Normally it’s more challenging to put back the gasket than to remove it. Softening the gasket with hot water, or applying some food-grade lubricant can help tremendously. Do the replacement while the machine is not hot or pressurised, and use your fingers to feel and ensure that the gasket has been properly inserted into the grooves.
Issue: Water coming out from the boiler is cloudy or coloured.
Answer: The steam wand removes water and keeps all the minerals. Over time, a high concentration of minerals or sediments may be left in the water. Within the machine, the water only passes through copper, brass and some silicone hose. In some models, the boiler is nickel plated, and there’s nothing in it that will rust.
What you should do is you can empty the boiler and refill a new one. This is best done at least once every 3-6 months.
The following steps will be good for any heat exchangers. For double boilers, the following steps can only remove water from the steam boiler.
Allow the machine to power up and heat up for around 30 minutes.
Power off the machine, and immediately release water from the water wand. This should drain out approximately 60-70% of the water. You may want to remove the water wand’s head during the process (Be careful of scalding yourself)
The next time you power on the machine, it should refill itself with fresh water.
You should do it at least once every 3 to 6 months for home usage. Monthly for heavy usage.
IMPORTANT: If the machine is connected to the water network, the water source should be closed before releasing the water in step 2.
Here’s an online video found on Youtube on draining a heat exchanger:
Issue: Steam is not coming out from the steam wand
Answer: First, check if your water wand is operating correctly. Water is flowing on activation.
If it does, it means that the boiler managed to heat and pressurised well, and isolates that your steam wand is stuck.
The most likely reason is milk retained in the steam wand, resulting from improper cleaning. Milk solidified and choked the steam wand.
It is more possible to happen to a single-tip steam wand.
Switch off the machine and allow it to cool.
Remove the steam wand’s tip.
Check and remove any blockages.
Reattach the tip and test.
Issue: Water is dripping from the spigot behind the brew group during heat-up.
Answer: This normally occurs during starting up. It’s residual water coming off from the last use. Together with water released from expansion during heat up.
Issue: My grouphead lever on my E61 wand is getting squeaky or stiff
Answer: 3 possible reasons.
Your grouphead cleaning with detergent is too aggressive. Either too much or too frequent. Usually, this solves by itself when you make the next coffee. Some coffee oil will probably stick and lubricate the gears.
Too many remnants in the grouphead. This could be possible if you rarely do any grouphead flushing.
The gaskets and gears are worn. This could be the reason if the machine is several years old or heavily used.
Most of the time, it is due to cleaning too much.
Issue: There are steam and a little water, suddenly the machine isn’t working.
Answer: Check your water tank or water connection. Most likely, water had run out. Check your water tank has sufficient water and is properly placed.
Issue: The machine is getting noisier.
Answer: Normally, there’s nothing wrong with the machine. The pumps are on holding stands that reduce vibrations. Your area may be too enclosed, and the echo amplifies the noise. The drip trays can cause a rattling sound if they are not correctly placed. Likewise for cups that may knock each other or onto the tray.
Issue: There’s a pool of water under the machine.
Answer: First, observe where the pool of water appears. If it’s coming from the front section, normally it’s from overflooded drip trays. Clear them regularly.
Or it could be your wands are not closed.
A few drips are common, sometimes from the pressure relief valve during the heat-up.
If your machine is plumbed, the inlet pressure might be too much.
If there’s a continuous sizzling sound with a huge amount of steam escaping from the boiler. Call for service or maintenance.
Issue: There’s a pool of water under the water/steam wand(Expobar).
Answer: The steam or water wands weren’t closed tight enough.
Issue: My machine is too hot.
Answer: If you have a PID temperature controller, tune it lower to around 90 degrees. Also, make sure that the machine is properly ventilated. The top of the machine should have enough vents to release the heat. Flush a little before brewing. Especially if it’s been idling for some time.
Issue: My machine isn’t hot enough, or the steam is too weak.
Answer: Make sure the machine has heat long enough.
If it cannot heat adequately, scales may form, and descaling will be necessary.
Issue: There’s a whistling sound during extraction.
Answer: Whistling sound comes from the leak of pressurised air. It’s quite normal to hear a high pitch whistling sound during the extraction, especially when the pressure is reaching a higher limit.
This whistling sound usually comes from the OPV, aka Overpressure Valve. As the OPV saturate, air can be squeezed out, and that causes the sound. That’s nothing to worry about nor detrimental to the machine.
Issue: There’s a clunking sound inside when I pull the lever down. (Bezzera Strega)
Answer: This is more likely to happen to the TOP version due to the bigger pressurestat. It’s also the sound of hot water passing through the wider heat exchanger rod. This can be safely ignored.
Issue: The water flow doesn’t look steady. (Bezzera Strega)
Answer: The water flow won’t be smooth initially as the water pipelines around the grouphead are not properly filled, particularly after a long idling time.
It won’t be critically important as the coffee relies on the pressure of the spring more than the pump for extraction.
Issue: The lever flicks back. (Bezzera Strega)
Answer: The Bezzera Strega should always be handled with extreme care. It will flick back if there’s no water in the brew chamber to cushion the springs when released. Thus, it will not flick back only if you load a portafilter filled with coffee that is fine enough to disallow water from seeping through quickly. During extraction, if the grind of the coffee is not fine enough or if the coffee is not fresh enough. Water will pass through quickly and may not hold any water in the brew chamber to fill it up. Since the chamber isn’t filled up, there’s no cushion of water holding once the lever releases, resulting in the lever flicking up with great force.
The user must be prudent during usage to avoid injuries.
Issue: The boiler’s pressure or temperature can’t build up. There’s a continuous sizzling sound of pressure escaping that doesn’t stop.
Answer: Check if you accidentally left the steam wand on. If not, you will need to send for technical service.
For other grinders, listen to the motor if there’s any sound. If there’s sound, there shouldn’t be any technical issues.
The grind setting is too fine
The burrs are too close together to allow any beans to pass.
Solution: Release the grind setting to be much coarser.
Nozzle stuck
Coffee is naturally oily and sticky, particularly dark roast or coffee from specific origins.
They may stick to the wall of the nozzle. Over time, it can accumulate, harden and obstruct the vent from dispensing coffee.
Solution: Unscrew the nozzle and vacuum out the buildups. Ensure that the nozzle is properly aligned when you install it back.
Grinder jammed Another possible reason is massive grind settings had been made, and beans were stuck between the sides of the burr, jamming the grinder.
Solution: 1. Unplug and ensure that the grinder is off. 2. Empty and remove the bean hopper (Unscrew if necessary) 3. Vacuum the remaining beans out from the inlet.
4. Turn to a very coarse grind. 5. Plug and switch the grinder back on. 6. Grind for a short duration and see if coffee is out.
7. Make your grind finer and press the grind button if you think the beans are still there. 8. Make your grind finer until it reaches your estimated grind level. 9. Replace the hopper and refill it with your coffee beans. 10. Adjust the grind and cup to ensure your coffee tastes perfect.
It could be jammed at the nozzle with too much-hardened coffee if it doesn’t work. Use the grinder brush and clean it. (Off the grinder while you do it)
To prevent this from happening.
It is recommended: 1. use the grinder cleaner or clean the grinder regularly. 2. clean the outlet with a grinder brush regularly. 3. do not make significant grind adjustments unnecessarily.
WARNING: NEVER PUT YOUR FINGER INTO THE GRINDER WHILE IT IS ON.
Issue: There’s this high pitch sound during grinding.
Answer: When the grind setting is set very fine, coffee trapped between the contacts of the two burrs may create some friction. It usually sounds like a faint squeaky sound.
This is very common. We see them even when we calibrate new grinders for our customers. The noise comes from the contacts of the burr and not the motor and can be safely ignored in most cases. Cleaning may help, but the noise may return once the coffee is reintroduced.
Sometimes, it could be caused by foreign objects hidden among the coffee beans that entered the grinder. Foreign objects can be stones or metal pieces that have found their way into the coffee beans during production. As destoning foreign objects require special equipment that can be expensive and troublesome to operate, farmers or roasters may skip the process.
EXTRACTION RELATED
Issue: The extraction isn’t ideal. I think there’s a problem with the pressure.
Answer: All espresso machines are tested to perform at their best before leaving the factory.
As different manufacturers have different ways of how water travels within the machine, it is not advisable to take the settings of other brands as the preferred configuration.
Pressure adjustment should be the last resort.
Issue: The extraction isn’t ideal. What should I do?
Answer: The most common reason for a lousy extraction comes from the grinder. The grind setting isn’t right. Either a problem with the particle size, the dose amount or both. That does not suggest that a bigger or more expensive grinder does the job better. The amount of coffee or its grind size cannot hold up the water appropriately enough to allow coffee to pass at the right speed.
Issue: My extraction is coming out too fast; the crema is thin
Answer: If coffee isn’t the issue, it’s usually a problem with the grind setting.
Increase the fineness of your grinder’s setting. Your coffee, maybe not be fresh enough. Increase your tamping pressure. Increase the amount of powder. Different origins of coffee have different oiliness levels that directly affect the amount of crema. Some coffee is naturally less oily.
One should not expect a thick crema from a light roast. Coffee with robusta generally appears thicker.
Issue: My extraction is coming out too slow
Answer: If coffee isn’t the issue, it’s usually a problem with the grind setting.
Decrease the amount of coffee powder used. Increase the coarseness from your grinder’s setting.
Issue: My extraction is still bad. My grinder isn’t the problem. What should I do?
Answer: Your coffee may not be fresh enough. Or the coffee you have has lesser oil, either due to the nature of the bean, a bad grade, or inadequate processing.
Pure Arabica blends and lighter roast coffee are typically more challenging to extract. Coffee with a little mix of Robusta has a richer amount of stabilised crema.
Issue: My coffee is very sour.
Answer. It’s generally due to the nature of the beans, or the roasting is too light. Try with a darker roast and coffee grown closer to the equator band.
If your machine has a PID, you can try to increase the temperature.
If it’s a heat exchanger, you can flush lesser.
Issue: My coffee is very bitter.
Answer: Pick a lighter roast blend or a lesser composition of Robusta beans.
If your machine has a PID, you can try to tune the temperature lower.
If it’s a heat exchanger, you can flush more.
Issue: I want to find out my brew pressure.
Answer: Check with a blind filter. It should show the maximum amount of pressure. Actual extraction should reduce a little.
You can’t find out your brew pressure with the Bezzera Strega, you should never use a blind filter on it.
